Hitch cutout – rear bumper panel

I did the cutout WAY smaller than the template (and a lot sturdier, as a result), and can perfectly install the locking pin I bought… but I only left enough space (on purpose) for this Master one, which needs a lot less space on the right side: Amazon.com: Master Lock Receiver Lock, Stainless Steel Barbellâ„¢ Receiver Lock, Fits 5/8 in. Receivers, Weather Resistant Automotive Receiver Lock, 1469DAT, Silver and Red : Automotive .
On the left side, I also l left quite a bit less than the giant template cavity, and just have to incline it a little initially, but doesn’t take me more than a second to slide thru. The width of our hitch is just a hair over 3″, but there’s no 3-1/4″ wide pin, so had to buy a 3-1/2″, and just installed hose rubber washers to eliminate the gap, and worked perfectly. As far as the receiver cavity, I HATE the huge gap around it, so I cut it perfectly to the receiver’s size. I couldn’t install an anti-rattle device, but made one myself out of 1/16″ sheet metal, which I install along with the ball mount, and worked perfectly. Have yet to try it, but I’m sure it’ll work better than any anti-rattle device I’ve used in the past, since they still rattled quite a bit. This metal plate eliminates the slop everywhere.
Finally, I had to grind the fascia just a little more to fully clear the 4-pin (pulling it down a little), and did it in a minute. It’d be super easy to extend the cavity under the car without removing anything, if you want more space for the pin. Below are photos of my almost-finished job (I did further smoothing, so now it looks like a factory job). Hope this helps.

Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design Grille Tints and shades
Bumper Automotive exterior Material property Automotive design Tints and shades

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