BTW: brake grease should be applied to the caliper mounts BELOW where the SS slides open. (to prevent rusting) DO NOT put any type of lubricant on the sliding side.
Excellent indicators, except for the above…
Both the Outback FSM and Akebono instructions clearly call for brake grease in the caliper mounts under/between the SS sliders AND at any point there is contact between the SS sliders and the pads…which is consistent with every other mfr including those of which avoids using SS sliders…despite SS being “smoother” than intermediate slider brackets that have machined surfaces for pad contact points, all of which require proper grease at ALL of these contact points. ..
Of course I may be missing something here or have misunderstood the reasoning… please spare me my ‘old school’ thinking and give me a clue as to why we shouldn’t paint subject points, although I’ll agree that basic function may well be unaffected, at least for a while… of course fat has a tendency to accumulate gross over time, which can impede desired movement, but in 20 years ah, 20 years DIY and going into 20 years of Instructing HPDE’s with a wide variety of makes and models I don’t ever recall it being a problem… that said I’m always open to suggestions for improvement…
Then there is the call for applying grease between all the support strips (inner and outer), the support plates and the rim of the ball… what do you say about this practice… I find it a bit much in most cases, as it is for noise AFAIK I don’t worry too much about them or anti-noise doohickeys because they don’t really matter on the track… but the Subie OB I’m bumping into is SO’s DD and she is REALLY noise defiant. .. ‘; )
As for “sliding” the contact surfaces that need to move freely, in addition to greasing, I’ve been dabbling in paint production color particles, I seem to like them these days and any rough/uneven contact areas on pillows… because they DO want them to move around freely and do their job…
Jes says…
db
