2020 Brake job front and rear FWIW

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I just did my brakes on my 2020 and thought I would post the experience in the event it was helpful. Brakes lasted 50k miles. Pictures above. Picture #1 is the front brake pads worn unevenly. #2 is the rear pads worn evenly. Pictures #3 and #4 are the front and rear rotors.


To start I feel like my front brakes could have lasted even longer if not for uneven wear. The inside pad was worn almost all the way and the outer pad had a bout a 1/3rd left.

I changed the pads only because the rotors were smooth with only a very small ridge. Changing the rotors as well just requires pulling them off once the caliper bracket is removed.

I used the Akebono ceramic pads on the advice of others on the forum. Important to note that the caliper hardware that came with the pads did not work. I could not get the pads back in the caliper no matter what I tried. I went back to the factory parts and the fit in mostly no problem.

I compressed the piston back. I then greased the pad tabs with silicone/synthetic brake grease. NOT dielectric silicone lube. It dries up over time and is not heat resistant. I reinstalled the pads as per below and lubricated the slide pins. Make sure the rubber boots full seat back into the caliper bracket to keep water out.

I found that getting the pads to seat was not easy. The wear indicator spring has to be compressed down while you twist and push on the pad the get it past the spring retainer on the caliper hardware. Then it has to be pushed down tightly and the top slid in. If the bottom is seated and pushed against the pad because of the angle you won’t be able to get the top to slide in. You need to pull the bottom back so the backing is as close to perpendicular as possible to the rotor and then slide the top in.

The caliper slid right back over and I tightened everything down and all good.


The pads were fully worn evenly. The rotors were smooth with no ridge at all.

Remove the retainer spring that holds the caliper in place on the caliper bracket. Take a picture or note on how it goes back in place. People often reinstall it incorrectly and you get a soft pedal.
Remove the caliper pins and push them back all the out and set them aside somewhere clean. They will likely have dried grease on them and maybe some surface rust.

To start I removed the caliper bolts that connect to the slide, disconnected the electric brake wire (which can be a real pain. Pushing on the release tab didn’t work I had to get a small screwdriver to pull the tab back at the top and pull down) and pulled the caliper off and placed it on the control arm.

The car uses an electric parking brake integral with the caliper. There are 2 notched out areas on the piston which are used to rotate the piston back in. I did not use a computer to set the brake into service mode. It was not necessary. I bought a tool to rotate the piston back but didn’t use it. I just used a pair of needle nose pliers positioned in the notches and rotated clock wise until the piston was seated. You then need to compress the piston back into the caliper as you would with any install. This is a 2 step process and must be done or you won’t be able to get the caliper back on.

Online you see videos with 3 different ways to rotate the piston. In my experience they are all too complicated unless you buy the tool and choose to use it but even that took more effort. The least practical way which is completely unnecessary and only risks damaging the caliper is removing the back cover on the parking brake motor and using the drive pin to rotate the piston down. I strongly advise against doing this. Too much to go wrong and you are supposed to replace the o ring which seals the cover up which is just another part to buy. The next way is to hook up a 12v battery to the pins on the caliper and use that to activate the motor and rotate it back. Be careful with the polarity as if you start rotating it the wrong direction you can over extend the piston. I don’t see any reason to do it this way as again you risk messing something up unnecessarily. The way I did with the needle pliers is not out on the internet that I could find but was suggested by a mechanic friend and was just so simple and was the least likely to damage anything. The computer had no issues with the process and I got no error messages.

Next I cleaned up the caliper slide pins. I used a light abrasive nylon pad with PB blaster which works way better than brake cleaner. Just clean off everything until the pin is completely smooth and clean.

I put a bunch of grease inside the caliper slide holes with a screw driver and stirred ir around. I lubed the pins and slid them back into place making sure they slid freely.

I slid the caliper back on and bolted everything up and reinstalled the caliper retaining spring. I added some extra grease inside the rubber guide pin sleeve to help keep water out and put the caps back on.

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