REAR DOOR 1. Disconnect the ground terminal from battery sensor. Ref. to REPAIR CONTENTS>NOTE > BATTERY. 2. Remove the trim panel ‐ rear door. (1) Attach the protective tape (a). (2) Open the cover and remove the screw. (3) Remove the clips, and remove the trim panel ‐ rear door from the panel assembly ‐ rear door.
View attachment 540526
(4) Detach the door lock cable (a) and door open cable (b) from the remote assembly ‐ door.
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(5) Disconnect the harness connector and remove the trim panel ‐ rear door. The rear switch is removed from the panel by prying it up with a flat tool. You can actually pull both door switches without removing the panel and swap the one that is working to the door that is not and see if the working switch will raise/lower the window. This will eliminate the switch as an issue. If the switch from the other door will work the window, get a switch. If it won’t, you check the harness inside the door for problems and the window operation by “hot wiring” the motor connector to a battery. This diagram shows the rear window switch and motor wiring. The driver door switch sends power and ground in relation to which way you want to move the window. This is the rear left door operation, the rear right is similar. To move the window up, power is supplied to the Yellow wire of the motor and ground to the Red. Power and ground is switched to go down; power to Red, ground to Yellow. The violet wire to the rear switch (left) is from fuse 6 (20A), and with the key ON, you should have power on that wire at the switch. Using a volt meter or test lamp is the way to check it. With a volt meter, you want 12.xx volts when the red lead is put to the Violet wire and the black lead put to a good ground. The bolts holding the door stop rod are usually unpainted and would be a good ground spot to check. With a test lamp, the clamp is put to a ground and the needle end of the test lamp put to the pin of the connector. If the switch is getting power, the lamp will light up. The right rear window, power is supplied from fuse 16, and the colors at the switch are the same.
View attachment 540528
View attachment 540526
(4) Detach the door lock cable (a) and door open cable (b) from the remote assembly ‐ door.
View attachment 540527
(5) Disconnect the harness connector and remove the trim panel ‐ rear door. The rear switch is removed from the panel by prying it up with a flat tool. You can actually pull both door switches without removing the panel and swap the one that is working to the door that is not and see if the working switch will raise/lower the window. This will eliminate the switch as an issue. If the switch from the other door will work the window, get a switch. If it won’t, you check the harness inside the door for problems and the window operation by “hot wiring” the motor connector to a battery. This diagram shows the rear window switch and motor wiring. The driver door switch sends power and ground in relation to which way you want to move the window. This is the rear left door operation, the rear right is similar. To move the window up, power is supplied to the Yellow wire of the motor and ground to the Red. Power and ground is switched to go down; power to Red, ground to Yellow. The violet wire to the rear switch (left) is from fuse 6 (20A), and with the key ON, you should have power on that wire at the switch. Using a volt meter or test lamp is the way to check it. With a volt meter, you want 12.xx volts when the red lead is put to the Violet wire and the black lead put to a good ground. The bolts holding the door stop rod are usually unpainted and would be a good ground spot to check. With a test lamp, the clamp is put to a ground and the needle end of the test lamp put to the pin of the connector. If the switch is getting power, the lamp will light up. The right rear window, power is supplied from fuse 16, and the colors at the switch are the same.
View attachment 540528
